Microfiches & Manuals:
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Exhaust
Tuning
Handling
Brakes
Tires
Electric
Accessories
Driving - Burnouts - Wheelies
Miscellaneous
What Vmax oil should I use?
by Doug Nelson, Jun. '98Hey guys lets see if I can help you out a little.
Remember one thing, oil is like religion everyone has there preference and thats good. Let me give you mine. I stopped using automotive oils for most if not all do not have the high pressure shear additives that motor cycle oils do because general automobiles do not have gears within the engine where the automotive engine oil is. Shear additives is what keeps the gears and other like parts that come in direct contact with each other from wearing excessively. Motor cycle oils have other additives that the automotive oils do not. The question about full synthetics verses none synthetics or semi synthetics. First let me say that after talking to many oil system engineers that make oils for Honda, Yamaha etc. They stated that they would not recommend automotive oils in motor cycles for the reasons I just discussed. They also went on to explain that semi synthetics oils seem to perform better in motor cycles than full synthetics due to the wear characteristics. After my extensive research with different types of oils I decided to use Honda semi synthetic racing oils. They are expensive but when it comes down to it its worth ever penny to me. I can tell you that when I used mobile one, other synthetic automotive oils that when I rebuilt the engine I had to change allot of internal parts like the gears, due to extensive contact wear. The bearings looked terrible, severally worn past the plating. After that rebuilt I starting using (my preference), semi synthetics, Honda racing oil. After my rebuilt I extremely abused my engine, over horse power applications such as 75% nitromethane 25% alcohol, high NOS usage etc. The last time I rebuilt the engine I can tell you there was a day and night difference in shear wear and associated close tolerance parts wear. My gears looked great as far as shear wear. The bearings looked like new, the cylinder walls and all other internal parts looked real good. I sent my blower off to the blower company for inspection. My blower was drained for 4 months prior to shipping. The person that inspected my blower ask personally what type of oil I was using. I asked why and he said he has never seen oil adhere to parts like this oil did. He said that all internal parts still had an oil film on them when usually oil would have been long gone by that time, this was the same for my engine internal parts. Now as far as oil types viscosity's, this will depend on your filtering system, clearances the engine was built to etc. The Yamaha service manual is your best guide for specific oil grades for stock engines. Remember motor cycle companies invested millions in research to see what will work the best in there engines. This is usually the best place to start.
Now what I have just told you is what I have come up with through extensive research. These are my gathered facts. You will decide to use this information, or as with religion you can go your own way. But I hope this helped you out. If some one else has engineering data or reports on this specific area then please feel free to add to my letter.
Thanks
Doug Nelson
Oil problems on sustained high revs (Oil level lamp)
by Jim Wahlstrom, Oct. '96Hi, I run a -96 V-Max with Dynojet stage7 (175 mains) TBR exhaust. All else is stock. It has about 20000 km on it.
This is what I have seen: If I get on the bike (REALLY get on it) Start at first gear taking of with out too much action then slam it open. Shift into second at about 10500rpm. Keep full-throttle in second someware around 8000rpm the Oil level light come on!! (I usually can't see the tach really well, You own V-MAX's so you know what I meen:-) I shift it to third at about 10500rpm and the light is still on (If you wounder why I din't let of the throttle when the light came on, its because then I would lose the race). When I let the rpm's down the light goes out again. The only other engine I have seen some thing like this on was a Ford 460V8. It would lose oil pressure over 6000rpm (all the oil would be wound up around the crank).Does my Max have the same problem? Anyone else seen this? If so what can I do?
Please help, I don't really want to blow my engine! (she runs so nice)
Jim
PS. I run Motul 300 full synthetic oil.
The Reason !?!?
I have gotten plenty of feed back on my oil-lamp problem. It seems like a lot of people have the same problem. Here is the reason (not a solution):
The Oil level sender in the V-max is in the front of the crankcase. Under hard acceleration the G-force will pull all the oil toward the rear of the crankcase and away from the sender, thus giving a false alarm. The good thing is that the guy who designed the oil pick-up was thinking (even if the guy who designed the sender wasn't) and put the pick-up in the back of the case. So there should be oil at the pick-up even if the sender shows a low condition. (under very hard acceleration, if its on all the time. you have a problem)
This is what I have been told (by more then ten people). I can't garentee that it is correct, so I will get an oil pressure gauge anyway. I suggest you to do the same. And don't blame me if you blow youre engines. :-)
Now, all I have to do is find someone who sells pressure gauges for Mr.Max...
Jim
For all you guys who have problems with the oil-level light that come on under hard acceleration.
Just put your oil-level at maximum and add 1/5 liter oil and your problems are over.
Greetings from Belgium.
Guy
Clutch Slipping #01
by Colin V. Cunningham, Oct. '96I had a problem with my clutch slipping. I tried to only replace the worn friction plates with a replacement set from Dale Walker, in California. I sand blasted the old steel plates to get rid of the burnt appearance. That clutch started slipping in no time. Turns out the steel plates had warped into a conical shape that I hadn't looked for. So I tried reinstalling the clutch with all the cones in the same direction, didn't work. Then I took my disassembled clutch to a drag racing shop (Performance Cycle Works, PCW,--great shop with dozens of mod kits for V-Maxes), a guy there, Scott Weatherwax, showed me where it was burned out, so I bought another set of friction plates and a set of steel plates. So I ended up making one minor modification in the clutch. The guy told me to throw out the half diameter friction disc, the small steel ring that's supposed to go inside that small friction disc, and the cheesy, long circlip that holds those two parts in, and replace that thinner friction disc with another regular size one. The guys at PCW really hooked me up with some cool info.
I haven't had a problem with the clutch since. In fact, after installing that clutch, I chirped my rear wheel at sixty-five MPH! I've ridden my Max 72,000 miles. I don't abuse my clutch, so it was pretty frustrating when it was slipping. I learned to scrape pegs, right tail pipe and center stand in the Japanese mountains, but I don't try wheelies and burnouts too often.
Colin
For those interested:
PCW Racing
112 Henry St., Schenectady, NY 12304
Tel: +1-518-346-7203
Fax: +1-518-346-2817
Email: VMAXPCW@aol.com
The Solution
by JD Anderson, Nov. '96I was reading your tips page and I caught the tip on clutch slippage from Colin V. Cunningham (Oct. '96).
I wanted to add that I was experiencing the same problem on my '85 'Max and I was able to solve the problem by adding a second stocker clutch spring. Since the spring is a conical spring steel type, stacking the springs was a piece of cake and the extra squeeze was all it took to stop that nasty slipping. That, coupled with a new set of friction and drive plates should cure current and prevent future slippage problems. I like the tip of removing the half-width plate and replacing it with a full width substitute. This must have been done in the past on my bike because I didn't see the half width plate in my clutch pack.
Bye J D
Clutch Slipping #02
by James K., Feb. '99My 85 V Max clutch slipped at an RPM that was about 100 HP to the rear wheel according to my Dyno curve.When I took it apart I measured the thickness of each plate with a vernier caliper then measured the stack height.I found my discs to have some in spec and a few below minimum spec.I purchased a new disc pack from Barnett Engineering {562-941-1284} in Southern California.Upon speaking to an engineer there,I discovered their replacement disc pack is an upgrade {Kevlar}over stock, replaces the one narrow disc with a full width and they offer a kit to replace the diaphram spring with several coil springs for more holding power.After rebuilding my clutch I have had no more slipping even at full boost.
One more tip ----stay away from synthetic oil and car oil they have friction reducers that will allow clutch slip.
Valve Covers
by Bob Bivona, Oct. '96I have a 1992 Vmax that is now approaching 70,000 miles . I have it tuned by the dealer every 10,000 miles and I have the valves checked every other tuneup . I change the oil every 3,000 miles (my self) and change the filter every other oil change.
For the past 30 or 40,000 miles or so after the valves have been adjusted I have noticed that there is a very , very small amount of oil that seems to be weeping from the valve covers (both). The dealer has been very helpfull and has at no charge to me, replaced a number of gaskets . My question is "has anyone else had this problem" and if yes was "there anything that could be done??". This is getting very frustrating...
..thanks Bob
The Solution:
by Jim Wahlstrom, Nov. '96It turned out that his valve covers were NOT STRAIGHT! Since the bike didn't leak before the valve adjustment it would indicate that the deformation happened during the removal or re-mounting of the covers. I have heard of big aluminum car engines that has to be dissambled with a torque wrench, maybe the same applies to the max? (I don't have a work shop manual so I can't check) Anyway, They replaced the valve covers with a new (straight) set and now they seal OK!
Jim
Spark Plugs
by Bill Grinder, Jul. '97I just was out in the garage checking my bike. I thought I had a tight valve (ticking noise around the head). I started checking and tightening and found all 4 sparkplugs finger tight and that was the noise I was hearing. So it is a good idea to check the torque on those plugs once in a while.
K&N's on Keihin 39's
by Geir F., Jun. '98Until now there has been no way to fit airfilters on the beautifully working keihin 39 carburetors for the Max. I had an engineer make a set of air filter adapters (intake manifolds) for me and they are perfect. I believe they also fit the 41's, but that has not been tested. I have commissioned several more sets and each is available for USD 500 per set + shipping. The Keihen carburettors are probably the best thing for the Max, although they are expensive. These air filter adapters looks like pieces of jewelry and make the Keihins' realistic for street use.
Air Cleaners for Keihin Carbs
by James R. Emmi., Aug. '98I have 39 mm Keihin carbs on my V-Max.
There is an inexpensive and effective way to have air cleaners on these carbs. Sudco in California sells air cleaner adapters for the Keihin carbs. For air filters, use the UNI brand filters in 4 or 6 inch heights. This will all cost less than $150.00, which is less that what I have seen advertised. Also, I have seen a one hp decrease in peak horsepower, which I would rather have than a ruined engine because of dirt and debris with open stacks. I hope this information is helpful.
Dyno Jet Stage 7
by Luca E. W. Girardi, Nov. '97hi,
first of all "viva il v max, la moto pi¨ strafiga del mondo".
i have a 1996 vmax american version (v boost) and i get a dyno jet stage 7. to be sincerly at first i wasn't so happy, the bike was like a street bike (fzr, ninja, cbr, ect ect) all the power was up.
now tamburini (they have a site) send me a new jet set which will bring the power as it was in the original, just like a kick on the liver!! and it doesn't cost a lot at all.
ciao to evry maxer.
bst rgds luca
Luca
Dyno Jetting
Question: by Stanley, Mar. '98I have a 1992 V-Max. I have a Dale Walker 4 into 1 exhaust system on it. It also has the auto-boost installed. I have a Stage 1 jet kit installed with a single K & N air filter in the factory air box. I just purchased a set of K & N individual filters to eliminate the air box. I have to purchase the crankcase ventilation filter. I finally tried to run it, and it runs bad.
What has to be done? I don't want to install the Stage 7 kit which would have eliminated the v-boost. DynoJet had made Stage 2 and 3 kits for various other bikes, and I thought they once made a Stage 3 for the V-Max. If I had to rejet the carbs again specifically for the Dale Walker exhaust and the four K & N individual air filters, I wouldn't mind, as long as the effort would result in noticeable increased performance.
Any proven solutions are welcome.
Thanks!!!!
Stanley
Answer: by Ross, Mar. '98You need to get the dynojet stage seven kit WITHOUT the inlet manifolds. It is available as a kit without the manifolds, I can't find the paperwork to give you the part#, sorry. I had the same problem when I went to individual filters with the stage one fitted, it would die at about 6000rpm unless you nursed it through this flat spot with very light throttle. INSTALL THE KIT AS PER INSTRUCTIONS except for the crankcase breather, just put a filter on the end of the original breather. The needle profile of the stage one is the main problem as you will see when you compare them to the stage seven needles. I'm running #175 mains with a four into one exhaust and it seems about right. The stage seven has copped some bad press for some reason but I know several people who have fitted them and are very happy with them. These have all been installed WITHOUT the dynojet manifolds so you keep your V-boost. And just wait until you hear the induction noise!
Sounds GREAT.
Regards
Ross
I have noticed a lot of max owners wanting to fit seperate air filters but not at the expence of buying a stage 7 kit. The way to seperate air filters with out losing the v-boost, is to fit the stage 1 dyno kit with the stage 7 main air correctors which can be purchased seperately. It sounds absolutly beautifull. My max is made an extra nine bhp just by fitting the stage 7 air correctors and seperate air filters.
Fitting seperate Filters
by Chris, Aug. '00Regards,
Chris, Welsh Max, Wales, UK.
Tamper Proof Plugs on Carbs
by Patrick D. Burns, June '98I found a great way to take out the tamper proof plugs on the Max Carbs.
Drill and Tap the plug using a 6-32 tap. Screw a 6-32 bolt into the plug and remove using a pliers.
Patrick
Jetting - Supertrapp
by Stephen E. Dold, Sep.'98I recently installed the "Supertrapp" 4 into 2 slipp-on exhaust system on my '97 Max. I installed it with all 8 discs (sounds good) not too loud, but definitely gets your attention. You can run this system with the stock jetting,but you need to open up the low speeds about 2 1/2 to 3 turns. I noticed however, that I lost some midrange pull (too lean). So I installed a K&N filter & Stage 1 jet kit. Used the #165 mains & set the needles in the 2nd groove. Left the low speeds alone. MAN THIS BIKE FLYS NOW!! The throttle response is much better than stock.
Tried the #170 mains with the needles in 3, but it's too rich.
Stephen
Speed restriction on the japanese model #01
by Morten, Jun. '98I'm a danish Max'er with a 1990 Jap-home-model. It's been fitted with the original Yamaha V-boost (of course!), 'cause without the boost it's not "The Real Thang", right? I have a problem though....
My Max is still limited at top speed 190 km/h. Do you know how to get rid of that limitation? I've tried to open the speedometer, but it's one whole encapsulated plastic "house"....so that you can't tamper with the milage I guess. Some say, that the top-speed limitation is in the speedo, and other says, that I need to get an ignition-advancer to get the full potential of the bike. I don't know where to turn! There's no limitation at all at the revs - it boosts from 6.000 rpm to the redzone like it's supposed to. But you know in 5th. gear your "flying" with app. 180 when it turns open, but at 190 (homemarket models have this sorry speedo..) it turns off until the needle hits the mark 190 again and you fly on... Hmmm !
Can you help me? I hope so. Ya' see, not many know much about our beloved Mr. Max here in Denmark. Hope to hear from you or others !
Multi-Max Greetings
Morten "MadMan" Valbjørn
The Solution
Earlier I tried this HELP-site to find out how to get rid of the Speed-restriction on the 1990 Jap-homemarket model....
The answer came from VMax-club Norway...
One is to buy a "Speed-Restriction Modification". It is to be mounted in the headlight. It's a small box which goes between to wires to cheat the electrical system. I haven't got hold of one yet,so I can't tell you much more about it, yet. You should be able to fit it in app. 5 minutes with the use of a screwdriver - niiiice!
Where to get it?
Speed & Dyno Shop, Oslo Tel. (00)47 6706 0882 (9:00am-12:00am)
Cost: 2614,- Nkr.
See ya' Morten "MadMan" Valbjørn
Speed restriction on the japanese model #02
by Morten, Aug. '98Well after a while I also got this e-mail from greece:
> I' ve seen your problem with Speed-restriction on the 1990 Jap-homemarket model and I own a 85 model vmax.
>
>Try to do a very simple move. Take a small piece of thin cable and sort circuit the tiny capsule in the speedometer with a soldering station, or take it away from the hole that sits. This capsule is nothing but a magnetic switch that opens and closes with a frequence depending on how fast you drive. This thing is the only device that the CPU knows your current speed. When i asked an authorized technician of Yamaha here in Greece told me the same things plus that the capsule is enabled in some models in Greece that came from Japan and disabled in models came from USA.
>Try to think logical before you spend money buying black boxes that someone wants to sell.
>Regards
>Menos, Thessaloniki/Greece
Morten
Speed restriction on the japanese model #03
by Morten, Mar. '99Hi Again MadMan's back !
This time with the absolute cheapest way to get rid of the speedrestriction !
Cut the Speedo open with a small saw - now you have access to everything - but DON'T TOUCH THE COUNTERS (shame on you !) Anyway...You will find a printed circuit. On this is mounted a two-legged magnetic switch, that works with the electronics. On the back of the speedo-needle a disc with two different diametres is mounted. On idle - one end of this disc is between the two legs of the switch. When running, the disc is turned away from the switch untill you reach 190 km/h. Then the other end of the disc reaches in between the switch, blocking the circuit...This activates the restriction (puts out one or two of the cylinders). Take a pair of cutting nippers...he-he-he.... Remove the 2/3 of the greater disc opposite the idle-position. Now the disc is still between the switch on idle but the rest is looong gone = Full Throttle available ! (Nothing's blocking the switch) YEEEHAAAA ! Off ya' gooooo into the sunset....(without having screwed up the elcetrical system).
Well, it took me some time, but finally - IT'S HACKED !
Thanx to the ones, that tried to help - especially Menos, Greece who has been great inspiration to the fiddle-fingers....
See ya' out there !
Morten, DK
When you first switch on your ignition you can hear the vboost servo run through its full range and back, try this. With the ignition off remove the left side fake air scoop, while looking at the middle of the block of carbs turn the ignition on and you will be able to see the vboost control go all the way up(open) then it will return to its original(closed) position. The aim of this exercise it to have the vboost in its fully opened position permanently.
You will find some electrical connector plugs behind the left fake air scoop. With the ignition off locate the round connector with five pins (there's only one round one). Unplug the connector (it's quite tight) and then plug it back together so it JUST makes contact. Turn on the ignition while watching the vboost controls. Unplug the connector when the control is in the fully open position ( it might take a few attempts to get it just right) and then leave it disconnected.
When you start your bike you will notice that it now has a very mean sounding lumpy idle (when I first tried this, I really didn't think it would even run!). When you ride off on your bike you will get a BIG suprise from the big increase in low and midrange power! I hope you try this, you WILL be impressed! I marked my throttle position with the vboost running normally then compared it with the vboost opened. Normal 80Kph, opened 100Kph. The bike is so much more fun I have since removed the vboost controls and butterflies completely, replacing the crossovers between the front and rear manifolds with a piece of aluminium pipe. This mod will not affect the overall topend horsepower. You just need to be careful exiting first and second gear corners especially in the wet! Hope this helps you out, definitely try this BEFORE spending your money on the autoboost!
RegardsRoss
V-Boost #02
by James K., Feb. '99I have an 85 V max with supertrapp slip ons 8 plates,Dynojet stage 7 kit with individual air cleaners,rejet and install new slide springs and manifold pipes to have the V boost on all the time.The bike idled very rough,made good power at high rpm and got very bad mileage.I also found I could no longer sync the carbureters as they were interconnected on each side.My solution was to put the spring loaded butterfly valves back in and install a manual cable lever [from bicycle shop $7.00]and attach it on the handlebar and to the butterfly cable.This allows me to have the V boost off for idling and driving around town.I can sync the carbs and get alot better mileage also.When I want the boost I just open the lever.This way I can have full boost any time I want and it really makes a difference.As long as the slides are coming up it really builds horsepower.With the stock set up most people would rarely get full boost because that occured at 8000 rpm. If you're riding a V max at 8000 rpm ,at least here in Calif. you will be spending a lot of time in the slammer.
I've had this set up on for several months now and I feel that it's the best way to go.
James
Cylinder firing problem
by T.C. Howery, Nov. '98I wrote recently about my new 1998 VMAX (950 miles) that began to lose firing/power in cylinders 2 & 3. I thought it may have been a concern attributable to the CDI box or coils (cylinders 2 & 3 share the same coil). After bringing it in to the dealer though, he determined the pilot jets were clogged, so the affected cylinders would not fire at idle. The jets were blown out with compressed air (by removing the tamper proof plugs and pilot screws) and all was well. To clean out any remaining residue in the fuel system, I added 3-4 ounces of Gumout to a fresh tank of gas and, within 10 miles or so, the idle speed increased by 100 RPM -- given that the fuel filter was clean, the fuel contamination was probably water. In conclusion, what seemed like a probable ignition system concern really turned out to be a bad tank of gas. Also, the lean condition upon start-up went away. In summary, I'd recommend using a few ounces of fuel system cleaner after every 3 or 4 months of riding.
RegardsT. C. Howery
Poor Performance / Tach Malfunction
by Nunzio, Feb. '99I had e-mailed two inquiries in January regarding poor performance and a tach malfunction, along with some questions on certain accessories. The fix is as follows, I hope it is of help to others:
My bike had lost power fairly suddenly. No misfires just real sluggish. I attempted to fix by making carb adjustments, re.: pilot screws and shimming the needle thinking the bike was lean. After much trial and error, I removed the pilot screws completely and placed a long nozzle on a can of aerosol carb cleaner in the hole. A couple little squirts and a puff of air later, I adjusted the screws out 3 turns, (per Dale Walker, thanks Dale). Viola!! a new 'Max. The bike now runs like the torque monster it is.
Also, the dealer replaced the ignition module on warranty, and now the tach appears to work properly.
Thanks again. TWIST & SHOUT!! Ninzio
Tuning Problems
by Ståle Giverhaug, Feb. '99First: I don't mean to be negative, in case someone understand it that way!
It seems to me that very many of the V-max problems people want help to solve on your great side are related to modifications on the bike. Especially Dyno Jet kits often causes poor fuel mielage and problems during slow crusing.
The MC-shop where I put my bike away for service have full Dyno test equippment. They told me that even the stage 7 Jet kit often don't give more power at all. And if you still vant to install it, several tests on the Dyno is needed to make it work well.
I have a '85 V-Max with custom exhaust and KN-airfilter in stock airfilterbox. All the rest of the bike is stock. I have owned the bike for 7 years now and it has gone 85,000 kilometres.
My best tips is: Yamahas engineers are probably not stupid. If you want a reliable bike, keep it in stock shape!
Stale
Reverse Shift Pattern - (The "MASON MOD")
by Don Mason, Jan. '001 up 4 down.
This mod will allow for faster and more precise up shifts.
COST: under $10.00
TIME: under 2 hrs.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL: 3 out of 10
HOW TO:
1. Remove the left foot peg bracket.
2. Take note of position of shift pedal.
3. Loosen lock nuts on shift rod (linkage), top one is left hand thread.
4. Remove the shift rod (linkage).
5. Cut about 3/8" off of each end of the shift rod (linkage). A Dremel tool works well.
6. Remove pinch bolt on (splined) shift lever assembly.
7. Pull splined shift lever off of shaft and rotate it CCW to about half way between the 9:00 and 10:00 position + or - to your liking. Re-install splined lever and pinch bolt.
8. Re-install shift rod (linkage) between shift pedal and shift lever. Adjust shift pedal close to original position.
9. Install foot peg with forward bolt only so peg bracket can swing up and down.
10. Lift peg bracket up close to shift lever and mark bracket for clearance.
11. Remove bracket and cut just enough metal to clear all shift apparatus. (Dremel tool works well)
12. Touch up cut area with paint.
13. Re-install peg and bracket when dry.
14. Adjust shift pedal to your liking and tighten lock nuts.
If you have questions feel free to e-mail me at or give me a call at (419) 862- KICK
Exhaust tips #01
by Thomas H. Rodgers, Dez. '96After trying several systems out on a dyno machine, (kerker, supertrapp, ect..) I have found that the Hindle Pipe, 4 into 1 is the best performer....Noticeable gains in both Horsepower and torque were noticed...and on the street...the sound is pure exctacy!!!
It's really cool when on cruise nights all the cars are there with their dual systems and glass packs, and I pull up on Mr.Max and rev her up a bit!!!! They all wonder where it's coming from!! Then I do it again, dump the clutch and smoke the shit out of the tire!!!!
Impresses them all!!!!
Regards Tom
Exhaust tips #02
by Dave Sootin, June. '98I have a 97 V-max (Platinum) with black exhaust. Personally, I really like the look of black exhaust against the silver bike. Supertrapp makes "Black Tip Coating" slip-ons for the Max. It turns out that the "black tip coating" slip-ons are completely flat black with the typical supertrapp stainless cap on the end. You can keep the centerstand, and save on weight (vs. stock exhaust).
So, if anyone asks you about black exhausts and likes the sound of a supertrapp, then tell them have no fear, there is a solution.
Dave
I love the sound of throaty pipes on a bike, but I also like the look of original VMAX pipes. I have seen suggestions about drilling holes in the round disks that cover the back of the megaphones. It sounds good but it looks bad. Here's what I did. I drilled out the five rivets that fasten the disks to the back of the exhaust. After removing the chrome cover disk, I used a drill to drill 5 large holes in between the small holes where the rivets used to be. I fire up the engine and the sound was great, but as I said before the look was pure ugly. Riveting the chrome cover back, would have just resealed the new holes. So I stacked 3 "rivet backing plates" (they look like small washers) one on top of the other to create a spacer for each of the new pop rivets that I used to reattach the cover. Using 5/32" (4mm) rivets seems to work well. When all five rivets were attached the cover plate was spaced away from the new holes by about 1/2 inch, allowing plenty of rumble to punch through.
You can't even tell visually that there was any alteration unless you have a second set of VMAX pipes with which to compare them.
I do have one question though...does the increased airflow now require adjusting the carbs and/or fuel mixture? How do I know for sure? The engine seems to run as strong as it did before...no flat spots in power...it just sounds better.
GR8MTN@aol.com
Exhaust tips #04
by James K., July '98I have an 85 V Max with stock exhaust pipes and Supertrapp slip ons.
The bike started making a shrill rattling noise that kept getting louder and was coming from the left side of the bike. First I thought it was a piston pin or something but it turned out to be the inner exhaust pipe had cracked and was rattling around inside the exhaust pipe. The break was near the front cylinder and was resonating the length of the pipe.
The fix was to drill 2 holes on the inside of the curved exhaust pipe where it doesn't show, only through the first wall, then heliarc the inner and outer pipe together through the holes.
James
by sheebe@sierra.net, Dez. '96
Here are some tips. Hope they help someone out. Here they are:
1: Tape the vboost out replace vboost with 2 sleeves (the ones that replace vboost); gotta build 'em. Connect front carb to rear carb with sleeves. Go up two on the main. Over rev increases 1000rpm 5% increase hp increase on dyno, unknown about torque
2: Take stock mufflers off and replace with kerker slipons and a crossover pipe (have to build it yourself) as far back as they can get it on the rear two cyclinders. Should be 32", from center of exhaust valve, back on rear two cylinders, but 32" is almost impossible to get. Dad got it 27" back. 32" is hard due to being back into mufflers about 3". When you take off the resonator and put on kerker headers it don't do nothing cuz you got to have the crossover on rear two cylinders. 10% over stock on dyno.
Lemme know if you need more info, or call my dad at 208 939 3753 (that's in Boise Idaho). His name is Norman.
sheebe@sierra.net
Vmax German/Euro -Version
by Dirk Vorrath, Feb. '97Zu der Leistungssteigerung:
Im allgemeinen ist der Aufwand fuer die Leistungssteigerung (verglichen mit anderen Modellen) sehr klein. Zum einen werden die Vergaserschieber abgedreht so dass sie den vollen Querschnitt des Ansaugbereichs voll freigeben. Des weiteren wird die Beduesung geaendert (neue Duesen). Danach wird das Maschinchen neu eingestellt und die Operation ist beendet. Das kostet ca. 500,00 DM. Im Preis ist das Leistungsgutachten der Firma mit inbegriffen (ca. 240 DM), wenn man die Leistungssteigerung unbedingt beim TUEV legitimieren moechte.
Zum Fahrverhalten:
Der Motor ist wie ausgetauscht. Man hat das Gefuehl, vorher mit angezogener Handbremse gefahren zu sein. Der Motor laeuft zwar mechanisch haerter, verliert also ein bisschen Laufkultur, aber das ist wohl der Preis, den man zu zahlen hat. Nach der Operation hat der Motor von 72 auf 92 kW ca. 20 kW zugelegt, was sich im Fahrbetrieb deutlich bemerkbar macht. Der Motor entwickelt ueber den gesamten Drehzahlbereich seine eindrucksvolle Leistung und hat kein "Loch", wie bei der US-Max. Im Gegensatz zu den amerikanischen Modellen bleibt erwartungsgemaess der "Kick" ab 6000 Touren aus - braucht sie aber auch nicht, weil im mittleren Drehzahlbereich mehr als ausreichend Kraft zur Verfuegung steht. Da ich schon einige US-Modelle gefahren bin und den direkten Vergleich habe, muss ich sagen, dass mir die 125 PS - Version in der Motorcharakteristik deutlich besser gefaellt. Als kleiner Nebeneffekt ist noch zu sagen, dass die Endrohre ihren Durchmesser behalten und somit auch wesentlich leiser sind, als die US-Modelle.
Alles in allem wuerde ich eine "entdrosselte" EU-Version immer wieder einer US-Max vorziehen. Fuer weitere Fragen stehe ich jederzeit zur Verfuegung.
Gruss nach Koeln
Dirk
Vmax Headshake - Handling #01
by John Furbur, Jan. '97I learned a cure for headshake about 6 years ago, and it's worked on every bike I've done it to ( dozens so far ).
If you remove the top triple clamp, you will find a clip, 2 steering head nuts, and a rubber washer seperating them. Remove the washer from between them, check the first nut for proper preload, and then tighten the second nut FIRMLY against the first, aligning the slots. Now put the rubber washer on top, then the clip, put your top triple back on, tighten all bolts, and WOW! the shake is gone! If your bearings are still good, and your tire has not been chopped by the vibration in the steering head, you should be flying free of worry of being spit off.
I want to take this opportunity thank the guy from California I met in Daytona years ago for this tip, and I am thrilled to have this forum to pass it along. Any questions will be gladly answered at 303-235-8629 8-10PM MST (Denver, CO USA).
Keep up the great work, Mr. Ullrich!
John
An addition...
by John Furbur, Jul. '97Here is the quick version I use for mine and customers bikes, has worked well. There are steps being added and revised for personal tastes, and hey, that's OK, but this is what I do:
With bike level(centerstand?) and front wheel off ground:
1. Loosen upper triple pinch bolts
2. Take out headlight(2 phillips), and upper headlight bucket mount(10 mm).
3. Take off steering head bolt.
4. Lift off upper triple and attached hardware.
5. Remove clip, 2nd(top)nut, and rubber washer.
6. Set top triple assy. back on, and push bars off center position(f.end should fall gently to rest on stop with no bind-tighten or loosen nut slowly until this is achieved-I use a large flat screwdriver and hammer- you can buy the spanner from Yamaha if you like).
7. Take triple off, and place 2nd nut(flat side down) on, and tighten on 1st nut firmly, 1st nut will spin if you are too firm. Align slots in both nuts.
8. Replace rubber washer(you can replace w/steel if you like-not necessary), clip, and then top triple-make sure as you replace triple that you align hole for top headlight mount, saves alot of time!
9. Secure headlight mount, top nut, and pinch bolts(you can torque top nut to Yamaha specs if you like, but keep in mind if you torque all nuts to Yamaha specs, and configure it like they tell you to, that's what causes this whole problem to start with, so take these 'saki' engineers torque reccomendations w/a block of salt- I just tighten the nuts and bolts firmly without stripping-remember, in most cases the threads are in aluminum).
10. Go in peace, my children, without fear of unexpected headshake, and the impending doom or at least shorts cleaning that follows.
Handling #02
by Marcel, Holland, Nov. '96If you have a problem with handling on high speeds;try a metzeler compk, front-tire 120-70-v18, it handles better in corners too? (lighter steering).
If you have plenty of spare-time and don't know what to do;grind off that ugly rim for the balancing lead of the wheels! and polish them! Looks like chrome.
Greetings Marcel
Vmax-Handling #03
by Bill Grinder, Nov. '96I had front "wobble" on my 85. I put on dunlop 591's front and back and installed a holeshot fork brace no more "wobble"
Greetings Bill
Vmax-Handling #04
by Norbert Wank, Nov. '96I confirm some decent handling improvement simply by using Progressive Fork Springs #1144 (for 93 and later models) and installing Dale Walker's Holeshot's polished chunk of metal (nice :-), serving as a much better replacement than that OEM hollow cast aluminum. A must for anyone riding as well through curves - and a should for those who ride mostly straights ( like us in Texas... ): better high speed stability. However, I was not too confident in the "One size fits all" attitude of preload adjustment. Since I have not recognized any adjustable fork end cap in the market place (please advise if I am wrong), I am going to get a custom end cap by using the original Yamaha caps, $50 :-(, drill'em out, thread'em and mount a custom plunger with set screw, lock nut, etc. - so that my featherweight of 130 lbs. (makes for great off-the-line-lauches!) can have its individual preload set-up. Of course, an individual spacer (I use a PVC tube for now) should accompany a complete kit, so that you may re-install the original set if so required by any fictive post-owner (just in case you have to part from Mr. Max...) If there is ANYONE out there, who is interested in the kit, PLEASE let me know ASAP. Quantities really bring the price down, and it may be even feasible to get those end caps machined to circumvent Yamaha's insane prices (but we all know any modification on Mr. Max goes in $100 increments). A single set will probably cost me about $180 total - just to prove the concept. A few dozen sets could easily get it back into the $100 "increment". However, note, that the forks have been changed from 1993 on. On demand for pre 93 models, I will investigate the differences in detail - hopefully there is only a minor adjustment necessary.
PS: TIRES
As I have to change tires on a almost MONTHLY basis (yes - I go through a rear tire every 6 weeks at 2.5k to 3k miles), I now switch to do-it-yourself with a "breezer"-tool, an air-compressor(thank's Dave!) and a balancing stand - within a few month I should have my investment back... As it will not take too long, I will keep you posted on my experience with (especially rear) tires. My next setup (thanx to all your input/feedback) is a Metzeler ME33 front and AVON Super-Venom rear. I prefered DUNLOP's K591 in the size of 160/80 for curve stability to the Bridgestone's Exedras, although a 160 tire is pushing it on a wimpy 3.5" rim. The fact that it is bald at 2500 miles did not please me too much though. And it's premium cost really does not pay off.
Regards Bert
Vmax Headshake - Handling #05
by Hasapis, May. '99Yes, the Furbur fix for steering head shake does work.
I performed it on two v-max,s with excellent results. The only modification to his procedure was I torqued the steering nut to 160 in/lbs and installed a copper crush gasket between the nuts.
Also I purchased John's sportmax seat, I found the seat to be everything he advertised it to be. It is a much better replacement seat than Corbin's overpriced, rock hard, can't fuel your bike seat.
Hasapis
Vmax Headshake - Handling #06
by Darrel, Apr. '98Hello from Houston, Tx
Just a quick note my local mechanic was talking to me about the inherit wobble problem which I have been dealing with for years (95 Max Owner) "gottaluvit"
Forget furbur fix, forget bracing, forget suspension, he told me to do the proper torque sequence via yamaha and then turn the spanner nut another half of a turn. So I decided to try this apprehensively, however it has since given me the sensation of stability throughout any speed and believe me I have put it through the test.
After all the tips and hints this has been the answer to my vmax dreams superb handling in curves, low and high speed romps. Just thought you might want to share this with others.
P.S. I enjoy your web page a great deal thanks for keeping it going.
God Bless Darrel
Vmax Headshake - Handling #07
by Gregory E. Thomson, June '99First let me say this is a great web site.
After posting a message on your HELP page and not getting any response I contacted Mad Max (Paul) and got the help I needed, he was great! I'll tell you what I did to get rid of the Wobbles, (tail shake).
Since were talking very high speeds ( 140+ mph/ 210+ km/h ) I'll only relate my story. If anyone want to try this they do it at ther own risk. I have the stock tire on the rear and a ME33 Comp-K 110/70X18 on the front. First I checked the front wheel for run out, it was fine. Next I checked the front axle, it was also fine. Then I checked the steering head bearings and races, they were BAD. There were vertical marks every 3/8" or 9mm on both top and bottom races all the way around. It also appeared that the top race was not seated properly. The factory must have fell a sleep on this one.
Before I go on I must say I tried the Furbur fix and it didn't help at all. I have the rubber washer in its proper place. I installed new bearings and races, cleaning the seats very carefully, Yamaha didn't do a very good job. I adjusted them as well as I could by feel, without the fork legs in the clamps. I resembled the front end, being very careful not to mis-aline or cause binding in any way. I still have the stock fork brace. I test rode the bike, I had a low speed wobble, approx. 50 mph. With a spanner wrench and my rear axle nut wrench from my bikes' tool kit I loosen the top clamp nut and tighten the bearing nut, both at once with the spanner wrench, retighten the top nut. It took a couple of times tightening the bearing nuts very little at a time ( approx. 1/8" turn at a time), to get rid of the wobble. Next I found I still had a high speed wobble.
Yes I got rid of it too. Again by a lot of trial and error and a weekend trip of my kind of riding. I found out if the bearing were too tight I would get a wobble at 90-100 mph. As I loosened the over tightened bearings, again a very small amount at a time, I found I could go faster and faster with out wobble, also no low speed wobble. Finally I can now travel over 140 mph/ 210km/h with out wobble.
Boy there is nothing like the V-Boost power at 8000 rpm in 4th gear and kicking up into 5th and asking for more. I used to ride a GSXR-1100 and rode that to its limit also. The V-Max power is more exciting!! The next thing for me, is to install a steering dampening unit. The Max feels a little light in the front end at my kind of speed. I hope my experience is interesting.
Keep up the great work.
Regards,
Gregg
Progressive Springs
by Gabriele Bergami, Oct. '96Just changed stock front fork springs with Progressive ones (Progressive no. 1144) and now cornering much better. The bike doesn't dive so much as before. I only feel a bit much ground holes. I had to shorten stock spacers of 35 mm. and reduce oil to 500 cc. of SAE 10W20 for every leg. There is also a mods I've done of carburettors intake that gain very much over 6000 rpm.
Bye and keep up the good work !
Ciao Gabriele
Solid Motor Mount Installation
by Mike Lesicko, Nov. '99I wrote these instructions regarding installing solid motor mounts, which really made a dramatic difference in handling and stability.
This is a detailed description for replacing the 6 stock rubber motor mounts with solid mounts. This modification will greatly improve the handling and stability of the Yamaha VMAX, there will be some increased vibration after doing this mod. Required tools are the normal metric sockets (including a 1 1/16 or metric equivelent for swing arm nuts), allen wrenches and torque wrench. Also at least 2 small hydraulic jacks. I will omit torque specifications, refer to shop manual for proper torque for all removed bolts and nuts. Depending on the age/condition and if you still have the stock exhaust bike you might want to take some penetrating oil and spray all the allen screws and nuts on the exhaust and exhaust guards a day or so ahead of the job.
*PRELIMINARY STEPS*
1) Place bike on center stand.Remove tank cover, remove scoops, using large philips screwdriver, unloosen the 3 screws on the black plastic plate on left side that holds the relays and module, let it hang down.On the right side remove screws that hold the radiator cap and hose joint,pull assembly out slightly. Remove screws from top of airbox, remove top, unloosen philips screws in clamps (under air box) on top of carb throats. Pull entire airbox up and out. ALSO LOOSEN TOP BANDS UNDER ALL 4 CARBS.
2) Remove rear brake lever and right foot peg, unloosen and remove 10 mm bolt holding engine ground wire (next to oil filler cap).
3) Remove plastic side pieces on each side of radiator remove 10mm bolts on each side of radiator and pull forward.
4) Remove License plate, remove bolts holding brake caliper. Remove cotter pin on rear axle and axle nut, pull rear axle out on right side (take notice where the washer is on the right side by brake arm bracket), pull brake assembly arm up near fender, pull rear wheel off to the right and out the back. Pull brake line out from holders on swingarm.
5) If you have do not have the stock exhaust, remove complete exhaust system using the appropriate steps and then go to step 6. For stock exhaust, remove chrome exhaust guard on rear pipes from right side, remove both rear chrome exhaust covers from rear pipes. From under bike unloosen all 4 bands connecting 4 pipes to mufflers. Remove bolts from each side of mufflers (near rear foot pegs). Remove bolt from under bike in the center right under fender. Grab both mufflers from rear and move up and down, back and forth, side to side and pull out towards rear (much easier said than done).
5a) Remove the bands holding the rear exhaust pipes to the rear heads, and pull pipes down and out bottom of bike, (PUT ALL PARTS AND PIPES ON SIDE OF BIKE THEY WERE TAKEN OFF OF), remove 4 allen nuts from front pipe exhaust studs, front pipes will come off as one piece.
6) Pry chrome caps off each side of swing arm,remove nuts, using allen wrench back out threaded pins. HOLD OR PUT SOMETHING (WOOD, RAGS) UNDER SWINGARM. Because swing arm is going to fall right out. Remove rubber boot from around U-joint.
7) If you have the Yamaha engine guards, remove them.
8) Place a hydraulic jack near center, front of underneath of engine block, make sure jack is on flat surface of bottom of block. Raise level so it just touches surface slightly, (you want to just relieve a little of the engine block weight off mounting bolts), if entire bike raises up any, its too much pressure.
9) On right side of frame near radiator on frame down tube remove large allen head bolts, place another jack towards rear of block on right side, raise just for support of engine block like the other jack. Remove right rear motor mount bolt, this will allow frame down tube to be removed.
MOTOR MOUNT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
** 4 of the new mounts will have a smaller diameter bolt hole, these are for the front. The larger diameter holes are for the rear 2 mounts**
10) Remove right front lower mount bolt. Twist and pull out rubber mount.Replace with new solid mount and replace bolt, do not tighten yet.
11) On the left side of frame, remove acorn nut, may need to hold rod on inside with 12 mm wrench, unloosen 2 10mm bolts on upper triangular shaped bracket, remove bracket. Unloosen and remove lower left mount bolt.
12) Unloosen lower bracket bolts, do not remove.Twist and pull out lower left rubber mount, replace with solid mount, replace bolt snug but leave untighten, snug up bracket bolts.
13) Remove acorn nut on upper front right mount, may have to hold rod on the inside of the mount with a 12 mm wrench to keep from turning. Repeat for left mount. Twist mounts back and forth. Remove rod and do not replace new solid mounts yet.
14) Move jack from front around to under rear left mount or as close to rear left as possible, raise jack just a little to take weight off rear bolt, remove bolt now engine is only supported by jacks in rear and the one left lower front mount.
15) Slowly raise jack up, watch U-joint it will need to be turned so it hits the gas tank at an angle that will allow engine to be raised enough to pull old mount out. You may need to remove U-joint, I did not. Also watch carb assembly it will move around when hitting upper frame.You may have to remove, again I did not. Once you clear the tab on frame, twist out old mount and replace with solid mount. On right rear side, move one of the jacks or use another one to raise this side. AGAIN WATCH U-JOINT, CARBS AND RADIATOR HOSE ABOVE CARBS ON RIGHT SIDE. It takes some jacking up and down and watching everything all at once, but it all move up just enough for me to just barely get the 2 rubber rear mounts pulled out and the new solid ones installed. SLOWLY LOWER JACK until holes in frame tabs are aligned. Replace left rear mount bolt and snug up.
16) Slide in upper front mount on right,slide in rod from left side. Install upper left mount. Replace right acorn nut, replace bracket and acorn nut on left side, then replace bracket bolts and tighten.
17) Replace frame down tube, right rear bolt goes through this first then through mount. Repalce all large allen bolts.
18) Tighten down all 6 mount bolts and front bracket bolts. Remove jacks.
19) Reverse doing steps 7 through 1. It would be a good time to check, clean and repack swingarm bearings. Just pry off dust cap on each side of swingarm.
Tip on reinstalling stock exhaust: Leave bands on rear heads loose and attach both rear pipes to mufflers first. Then attach front pipes to muffler assembly before fitting front pipes into heads. Install 3 mounting bolts for mufflers last.
Mike
Brakes #01
by Rob Canfield, Jun. '97I sent you an E-Mail on 25 May asking if you had any information on early brake failure. You put my query out on the Internet, and I was astounded at the number of responses I received!
Responses indicate that it is indeed a common problem with the Vmax from 1992 onward. I originally said that my disc had small particles of metal imbedded in it off the brake pads. This is not the case. Close examination under a magnifier indicates that small pieces of metal are being lifted out of the disc running surfaces and re-welded back on in another location. Both running surfaces are peppered with minute particles. The pads were manufactured by SUMIMOTO and the disc has no manufacturer's identification, but is constructed from seven different pieces of steel, a main spider or carrier with six 120 degree segments brazed or silver soldered to it to form the pad running surfaces. It's about the strangest design I've ever laid eyes on! I conclude that the pads are poor in quality, having large pieces of very hard material, and the disc is too soft. My Yamaha dealer and Yamaha Canada seem uninterested in the problem so I have been left to correct it on my own. I am now using a GALFER disc, part number DF459. It is available here in North America from:
GALFER BRAKES USA 5788 Dawson Avenue Goleta, California 93117 ATTENTION: Sandro Milesi E-Mail address is: galfer@silcom.com
I have chosen to use ceramic/metalic pads manufactured by OBTEK A/S in Denmark. The pad part number is SBS555LF. These are available through most motorcycle dealers in North America. They go by the name Scandinavian Braking Systems. The Galfer disc is a thing of beauty, laser cut from 420SS and very accurate in dimension. The pads appear to be very homogenous, having well mixed small particles in the mix. I bedded in the pads with easy use, then began using the rear brake much more than normal, and very severely. I now have close to 1000km of hard use, and am pleased to report that the rear brake is very strong, wet or dry, hot or cold. The running surfaces of the disc are as smooth as velvet. Sandro at GALFER has asked me to keep in touch and let him know how the brake performs over time, which I will do. Feel free to pass this along as you see fit. It represents one person's experience and opinion, but it's free for what its worth.
Regards
Brakes #02
by Kelly Ryan, Mar. '98My '86 V-max recently had a problem with warped front brake disks. I bought a replacement set from Galfer. Very reasonable and got a discount for being a VMOA member.
Better than new!
Generator trouble on the V-max
by Jens Petter Petersen, Nov. '96I have noticed this problem on several bikes. It stops charging the battery, when fault finding it seems like the rectifier is broken, but please check the earth connection between the rectifier and the battery.
Jens Petter Petersen
Ignitionbox
by Staale Giverhaug, Sep. '98On my '85-model the ignitionbox stopped working this summer. Luckily i got in contact with
Helge Paulsen Bilelektro,
Ringeriksveien 158,
Oslo, NORWAY.
They fixed the "black box" for about 1/5 of the price for a new one. The manager told me they had repaired about 2000 boxes mostly for cars, but also for bikes, the principles ar the same anyway. The bike works well!
Staale
Keeping the battery up to snuff
by Don Conover, Sep. '97THIS IS A NOTE I SENT TO STEVE AT YAMAHA IN CALIF. HE HELPED ME SOLVE A LONGLASTING PROBLEM THAT COST 3 V-REGULATORS.
DEAR ST.V.;
I'M HAPPY TO SAY THAT THE ELEC. PROBLEM ON MY V-MAX IS HOPEFULLY SOLVED DUE TO YOUR INPUTS. I FOUND THE BIGGEST FREEBY YOU COULD HOPE FOR. THE SPARE MAIN FUSE IS IN AN OPERATIONAL FUSE SOCKET AND ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS USE A PAIR OF FEMALE DISCONNECTS TO USE IT. THERE IS A PLACE IN THE OTHER FUSE HOLDER FOR TWO SPARES SO ONE COULD BE A 30 AMP. SUBMIT THIS AS A COST OR PRODUCT IMPROVEMENT SUGGESTION.
IN AN EFFORT TO CORRECT A POOR OUTPUT FROM THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR ON MY 86 V-MAX, I RAN A GROUND WIRE FROM UNDER ONE OF THE REGULATOR MOUNTING SCREWS TO THE BOLT AT THE LEFT REAR CORNER OF THE TOP COVER.(NEG. SIDE OF BATTERY IS TIED TO THIS POINT ON THE RIGHT SIDE.) THIS BROUGHT THE OUTPUT UP TO ABOUT 13 1/4 VOLTS BUT THERE WAS STILL A DROP IN THE POSITIVE SIDE. IN AN EFFORT TO GET A BETTER PATH TO THE BATTERY, I PUT ABOUT A 4 IN. EXTENSION ON THE OUTPUT LEAD FROM THE REGULATOR AND LUGGED IT TO ONE TERMINAL OF THE SPARE MAIN FUSE HOLDER. THE OTHER SIDE OF THE FUSE HOLDER I JUMPERED DIRECTLY TO THE POSITIVE BATTERY LEAD LUG. ON FIRST POWER UP I HAD 14 1/4 VOLTS AT 1250 RPM. THIS ALSO FUSES THE OUTPUT OF THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR WHICH I DON'T THINK CAN DO ANY HARM.
BEST OF LUCK
Don
Battery Charging #01
by Mac Steiger, Mar. '98I recently bought a '91 with 15K miles. Battery kept going dead, even after I charged it. Bought a new battery, same problem. Have discovered that the charging circuit isn't working (still reads 12 - 12.5 volts with engine revved). Diodes check out. Stator winding resistances (W-W-W) are all 1 ohm (specs call for .42ohms +/- 15%...so they are 50% out of whack?) Connectors and ground (black) all look fine.
Any ideas, or places I can look for advice (short of taking it to Yamaha)?
Thanks
Mac Steiger
The Solution:
A few days ago I wrote inquiring for advice regarding lack of battery charging. Although it seems too simple a solution, my hat is off to Jens Petter Petersen (Nov. '96-"Generator Trouble") and John W. Cook (Jan. '98-"Keeping the Battery Up To Snuff").
The problem was indeed corrosion between the rectifier/regulator unit and ground (frame). After checking and eliminating the stator and diodes, I removed the left rear side piece holding the rectifier/regulator. Bolt threads and contact surfaces were all rusty and corroded. I sanded, cleaned, oiled and reinstalled.
Everything is now working fine.
The slight amount of resistance created by the corrosion was fooling the regulator into thinking the battery was charged when it was not.
Thanks for the help
Mac Steiger
Battery Charging #02
by Tony Dwyer, Sep. '98I wrote to you about a recifier problem some time ago.I recieved some emails from some on the questions i asked and i would like to thank you all. I no longer kill battrey`s at will, the rectifier was shot.When i changed the rectifier I was told to run a ground wire from one screw of the rectifier to the neg. post of the battery to give a better ground path. I did and my voltage is now 14.25 volts,up from 13.25 volts with just OEM mount.
This works, we have put the ground wire on another vmax with the same results.
Tony :-) !!!
LET ME INTRODUCE BY MYSELF.
I AM A JAPANESE Vmax RIDER FOR 7 YEARS. I HAVE A 1985YRS MODEL. BY THE WAY, I AM SPECIAL THANKS TO YOU !!! BECAUSE MY Vmax HAS BATTERY AND GENERATOR TROUBLE FOR YEARS. WHEN I MET YOUR TIPS & HELPS, I TRIED TO REPAIR Vmax ALONG YOUR TEXT. NOW, MY Vmax COMPLETELY WORKING.
FOR YOUR REFERENCE, MY MAINTAINANCE METHOD IS AS FOLLOWS;
* REMOVE THE WAX & OIL WASTE FROM THE CONNECTOR BETWEEN BATTERY AND GENERATOR.
* BATTERY TERMINAL ALSO CLEANED.
* AND EARTH CONNECTION TO THE ENGINE WAS CLEANED.
FINISHED THE ABOVE, MY Vmax IS COMPLETELY WORKING. 14-14.5 VOLTS AT 1500RPM.
THANK YOU AGAIN, MR. INGO !!!
OVER
yoshikazu.katoh@kawasho.co.jp
Battery Charging #04
by Colin Lawrence, Feb.'99Pop the seat over the fuel filler. Where the piece that's just popped up rotates you'll see a 10m.m. bolt on each side through the hinge. They have to come off. On either side just below seat level and in line with the filler you'll see a white plastic piece with a cross-head screw. They come out too, then you can lift off the piece of seat.
At the front of the exposed area, just behind the 'tank' you'll see the 2 coils. Unscrew the leads in the top (front) of the coils. Undo the two 10m.m. bolts at the rear of the coils - they hold the coil mounting bracket down - and carefully raise the coils on the metal bracket without straining the cables. This will expose the top of the battery. Getting it off is tricky so I charge mine in place but be VERY careful - battery gas is explosive so after charging you MUST power off the main feed to the charger before attempting to disconnect the charger from the battery as any spark could end up showering you with hot acid. Heck, never mind you - it would damage the bike! I've had problems as I had an alarm fitted and it's draining the battery so I have just bought a charger from M&P that can be left connected all the time the bike's parked so the battery is kept in condition. It was 39 quid but has a plug and socket so that I won't have to strip the bike down to charge the battery any more. The socket is connected to the battery terminals permanently so now I can just pop the seat and plug in next to the fuel filler.
Makes life for this fair weather biker much easier.
Ride free.
Colin
Charging System
by John Robinson, Oct. '97The days have shortened and now I am riding to work in the dark which showed me a problem I am having with my VMAX The lights go bright and then dim. Naturally my first thought was that something was grounding out causing the lights to go dim. I spent several fruitless nights going over all the connectors and wires for the bike and was unable to find any evidence of bad wireing. The next assumption was that my stator was going bad, but that tested ok and finally I moved on to the rectifier. By hooking a volt meter into the red wire from the rectifier and then back to its connection to the battery I was able to watch how many volts were going to the battery. With the engine running about 4,000RPM agiain I noticed that the lights went bright and then dimmed. However at the same time my volt meter jumped from 13 volts to 17 volts therfore showing me that my bright lights were a result of overcharging.
You guessed it the rectifier was bad on one diode for one of the phases from the stator. Before you put a new stator on the VMax because you have heard all the stories about how they are hard on them, you should have it checked at your dealer, if you don't know how to check it your self it might save you a bundle...
John
Charging System No. 2, Fuel Pump, Valve Covers, etc.
by John W. Cook, Jan. '98CHARGING
If you have ridden your Max a lot in the weather and rain, and the charging rate is down, you may try pulling the passengers foot peg bracket which retains the voltage regulator, or rectifier as Yamaha calls it. When I pulled mine off, there was much corrosion between the mating surfaces. I cleaned this with sandpaper. This is then a direct ground to frame, which eliminates the need for a ground from the rectifier to the frame, near the battery ground. Also, running a direct wire from the rectifier charging output wire, "Red in color" to the battery gave me the same rectifier output. Running a JUMPER wire, from the rectifier output to the battery positive post, gave me one half of a volt more charging. All I could get out of it with a two year old battery was 13.86 volts at 2000. Mr. Yamaha states that it should charge 14.5 + or - .5 volts.
BRAKE LIGHT, TACH & FUEL PUMP
I found the brake light, tach and fuel pump are on the same fuse. My rear brake light switch went bad, which blew the fuse. I applied the brake at a stop light, on about the 3rd fuse and saw the tach drop. When this happens and the fuel pump quits, you are quickly walking. I changed the rear brake light switch, and problem solved.
VALVE COVERS
Another trick on valve cover gasket replacement, glue the gaskets to the valve cover to retain them during installation.
CARB SYNCHRONIZATION
Some owners may not realize that carburetors can be synchronized using a common vacuum guage. You do not need the elaborate guage Yamaha suggests. Just restrict/pinch the regular vacuum guage line to cut down on fluctuation. Start with the master carburetor or left rear, then left front, then right rear, then right front. Continue to check from side to side until they are in adjustment. The correction can be felt in test drive if they are very far out.
John
Turn Signals 01
by John W. Cook, Sep. '98If you have difficulty getting the signal to work, either left or right, first check to see that the bulbs in the front and rear are grounding and are in good condition (not blown). Now, try moving the signal switch up and down slightly as you move it left to right during signal selection. This problem usually manifest's itself by making you move the selector to the left or right hard to engage the signal. If the "Wiggling" of the selector seems to help, your problem is in the switch contacts on the left handle bar. You will only need a phillips screw driver. Dis-assemble the switch, and clean and slightly bend the signal contacts. Now the thing will work like it is supposed to. Take your time and don't get in a hurry. It is no trouble at all, about 15 minutes worth. You will have to do this about every year or so -- if you ride a lot like I do. If you wish to provide Mr. Yamaha with additional revenue you can purchase a new switch. However if your finances are limited like mine, this is the last choice -- especially since Mr. Yamaha charges restocking charges on returned parts. No need to purchase however if you simply clean and retension the contacts on the signal switch. Also much easier than replacing the switch.
John
Turn Signals 02
by Ronald Schoneveld, Feb. '00A simple tip. I recently replaced my standard turning lights of my Black Max by very small ones (with 'black' glasses). Due to the fact that these lights have a lower Wattage (I tried several bulbs), the lights were flashing with a high rate, like one of the lights was broken. Since this bothered me, I modified the turning light control (under the left dummy air intake) to flash at normal rate. The modification being: after opening the control enclosure (which take some patience to do without damage), cut the wire on the printed circuit board which is bend in a high bridge (approx. 1 cm high, 2 cm wide). This will disable the high rate flashing function if to low wattage (broken light!) is measured.
When having cut the wire-bridge in the middle, solder a Silicium DIODE between the two wires (make sure the two wires do not touch). The marked side of the DIODE (usually a white stripe) is soldered on the wire farthest from the connector.
The current rating of the DIODE must be high enough for the used turn lights of one side. Example: if you use max. 6 Watt light bulbs, the current is 2x6W/12V =1A. A very common DIODE you can use with this example is 1N4007 or 1N4004. I have used a 1N5401 (= max. 3A) which I had laying around.
Continue the good work with this great site. The only possible improvements I sea is if more tips and experiences are (send and) published and if more and better quality (standard) MAX pics are downloadable.
Greetings from Holland
Ronald
Voltage Regulator Wiring on 1996 Vmax
by Brian Austin, July '99I've found your web page to be the most info on Vmax. Thanks!!
The day I was reading your "Tips" section on rewiring the voltage regulator, I went home in my car, and my battery was dead in the Vmax, and the bike wouldn't start!Without any troubleshooting, I immediately took 16 gauge speaker wire, consisting of two wires, and, at one end, attached one wire to each of the two voltage regulator mounting screws. At the other end, I stripped both wires, twisted them together, and connected them directly to the negative battery post.
For the positive side, I jumpered the red wire coming from the voltage regulator, and connected it directly to the positive battery post. I charged the battery overnight, started the bike the next morning, and measured a full 14 volts at 2,000 rpm across the battery.
While I was unable to measure the voltage across the battery prior to the rewiring (the bike didn't start), the Vmax has started and run strong for the past month. To other owners considering this fix: the regulator is mounted behind the rear foot peg mount, on the clutch lever side of the bike.
I am the second owner of this bike, and I believe the previous owner had the same problem, because he bought a new battery that now has a lifetime warranty. Thank you, Ingo, and the other people who wrote in to your web page on how to perform this fix that would have probably cost me a lot aggrevation in batteries and stators had I not known about it.
Brian
An important addition by Brian a year later:
Ingo,
In the long term, that didn't solve the problem, although I would definitely agree that
corrosion on the mounting bolts of the regulator would be a common occurrence
and cause charging system problems. I bought a new battery, took the bike to a
dealer who removed all of my extra wiring, returning the bike to stock wiring,
and the voltage across the battery has slightly increased, and starts fine.
Two things wrong in my initial letter:
1) 16 gauge speaker wire (braded copper) is inadequate for this job.
2) Stock wiring has the hot red wire from the regulator to positive side of the battery fused with a 30 amp fuse. After
writing my letter to you, I added a fuse to my extra wiring. You should not directly wire the hot wire to the battery.
Please remove or change my
initial letter, as to not misguide your Web site readers.
Thank you, Brian
Fitting Accessories for Mr. Max #01
by Martin Denari, Feb. '97I thought that some of you might like to know (sorry if you already know) that there are some accesories for the Virago and for the Royal Star that fit perfectly on Mr Max:
1- Chrome Foot Pegs (the ones with tripes of chrome and stripes of rubber)
2- Passengers Chrome Foot Pegs (the ones with tripes of chrome and stripes of rubber)
3- Chrome Grips (the ones with tripes of chrome and stripes of rubber)
4- Chrome bolt covers for the 4 bolts that link the shaft drive with the wheel.
None of these things are listed as VMAX accesories, but I had a guy doing some research and we came to the conlusion that they fit. I got them installed on mine.
Best Regards...
Fitting Accessories for Mr. Max #02
by Vernon Hathaway, Feb. '97Some others I know will work are:
Differential filler & breather covers (Royal Star)
Motor mount covers (Royal Star)
Brake piston covers (Royal Star)
Brake line banjo bolt covers (Virago)
Tripple tree/stearing head bolt cover (Royal Star)
Billet Mirrors (Royal Star)
These things really dress a Max up. If you like chrome, that is but beware, it's not cheap. I've replaced one cover three times (it falls off) at $75 a pop. I have pictures of some of these installed if anyone is interested...
Fitting Accessories for Mr. Max #03
by Marc, Mar. '97ROYAL STAR MIRRORS LOOK THE SAME BUT ACTUALLY HAVE A LOWER HEIGHT FOR A MORE STREAMLINED APPEARANCE AND YOU ALSO DON'T LOOSE ANY VISABILITY. THEY ALSO DON'T HAVE "YAMAHA" PRINTED ON THEM FOR A CLEANER LOOK.
ALSO - I RUN AT HIGH ALLTITUDE AND HAD TO RE-JET MY BIKE - ONE THING THAT HELPED WAS TO REMOVE THE TOP PEICE OF THE STOCK TWO PEICE AIRBOX TOP ( THE V-SHAPED PEICE ) FOR BETTER AIR FLOW IN ADDITION TO A K&N FILTER.
Fitting Accessories for Mr. Max #04
by John Furbur, Apr. '97In addition to Marc's tip for airbox top mods, more airflow can be realized by cutting the top to match the oval of the filter, instead of just the small rectangle that is stock. It provides approx. 20-25% more opening and airflow, and works well with stock jetting at altitude, or jetting up at sea level.
I have an 85 max with a sissy bar on it. I have just bought the whole thing. I would like a conventional hand holder on the back and wonder, since I can take off the sissy extention, if there is an insert available that can plug into it.
The Solution
by Vern Hathaway, Aug. '97The "grab rail" from a Yamaha Virago 750 or 1000/1100 will work perfectly. The only thing is it is chrome. You could chrome the other two sissy parts (I did) or paint/powder coat the whole thing. I know this works, I have it on my bike a 94 Vmax. It's still a little difficult to switch back & forth, but I think with a little modification it could be easier. If interested, the rack also comes in chrome & can be used without the backpad/sissybar for a different combination
Stainless Bolt Kits
by Geoff, Oct. '98GDR Distribution
PO Box 58
Bognor Regis
West Sussex
England PO21 3JD
E-mail: gdr@geofrog.force9.co.uk
The kits listed below are proven and tested on my Vmax. Unlike kits offered elsewhere in the U.K which are totally incorrect and do not include all these items. Why find out the hard way?
Carriage Charges:
U.K mainland £1.25 per kit Europe / USA / Canada please add 25% for airmail.
Payment:
Cheque / Postal Order payable to GDR Distribution. Overseas orders please pay by bankers draft or Eurocheque in £ sterling only.
KIT 1: Allen head crankcase kit in A2 stainless steel with manufacturers markings. Includes allen key. Covers ALL outer engine cases and earth bolt, generator cover plate etc. Guaranteed to fit. £16.75
KIT 1A: Allen head crankcase kit in A2 stainless steel as per kit 1 but polished heads with no manufacturers markings. Includes allen key. Covers ALL outer engine cases and earth bolt, generator cover plate etc. Guaranteed to fit. £20.00
KIT 1B: Allen head crankcase kit in A4 top quality stainless steel as per kit 1A with polished heads with no manufacturers markings. Includes allen key. Covers ALL outer engine cases and earth bolt, generator cover plate etc. Guaranteed to fit. £26.75
KIT 1C: As above but bright polished hex bolts. £23.00
KIT 2: Fork brace bolts, upper and lower fork yoke clamps and Yamaha badge ob lower yoke etc. £4.75
KIT 3: Carb tops, exhaust manifold (not the ones in the barrel) airscoops (all) and barrel plates x 4, horn and radiator. £11.75
KIT 4: Disc bolts front and rear, 18 bolts. £16.25
KIT 5: Handlebar kit, including switches, clamps, indicator mount, reservoir caps etc. £9.95
KIT 6: Front and rear seat and grab rail etc. £14.50
KIT 7: Rear footrest hangers, rear brake slave cylinder, side panels, spindle clamps front and rear (pre 1993). £18.75
KIT 8: Engine mountings (less metric fine, coming soon) £15.75
KIT 9: Complete ignition set in button head stainless. Coils, ignition unit, V-boost, electrics under scoops etc. £19.95
KIT 10: V-boost cover bolts x 4 in polished button head. Replaces the pozi-drive screws which chew up at the sight of a screwdriver. These are similar in appearance to the rocker cover bolts. They are manufactured specially and are not cheap but will last forever. £13.25
Please do not hesitate to contact me for technical assistance or further information. Each kit supplied with sufficient copper grease for error free installation. Enhance the appearance of your Max with a GDR Stainless Bolt Kit !
Burnout 101-A
by Paul Beaumont, Sep. '97Burnout 101-A: Little details on Vmax Burnout's & Dragging!
* Back into water, roll forward just out of water (or as I do just ride across water with rear tire avoiding putting front tire in water) (yes, you can do without water)
* Grab front brake (I use 2 fingers) & lock, push down on front to get weight off rear
* Put into 2nd Gear. All experts agree that use of 2nd (sometimes 3rd - for burn & go's) reduce stress on driveline, make burnout's more controllable, make burn & go's (runoff's) longer and more controllable
* Left your butt just slightly off seat, not all, but a little, and fit firmly planted & flatfoot stance... If you don't and you sit down hard the bike will fishtail to much...
* RPM to 4200-5000 & hold.. and NOW, as I told Cheryl, TRUST ME and
* FULL CLUTCH DUMP (use two fingers here to - my preference), no hesitation, no reservation.... Even if you don't do this you won't get killed.... and you can still have kids.
* The bike may JUMP,.... hippy-di-hoppy.... regardless if (1) you did not push down on front (2) RPM a little low (3) front brake not locked (4) no full clutch dump.... but don't worry... this is not a scary event..... don't panic & pull in clutch, just correct with higher rpm 5-6000 & keep brake locked. If you do panic, just pull in clutch.... if you do get out of shape (ala beaumont doing 180 degrees swing in burnout area & scaring everyone) - just pull in clutch.... Normally I dump and bring up rpms quickly
* Soon as you dump it you want to stabilize your rpm and your bike for initial burn.
* Bring RPM up to between 5400-6000 - not over 6500 during this phase or you will get to much sliding around.... the RPM and your weight on seat control the stability of the burnout... don't worry though... vary you rpm while your trying to stabilize. Use the upper part of your thighs & your butt still lightly touching the seat to control what sliding you do get. If the bike is sliding right keep your rpm steady and just push the bike over to center again - getting correct rpm does not introduce to much sliding.
* Hold approx. 3-6 seconds (2,000 seconds for Mr. Furbur). Look down at smoke. When smoke starts rising 1-2 seconds just watch and heat for a second or two. My avon requires more heatup then normal max tires & I hold burn for 5-10 seconds, supplemented by a smoking runout.
* Make sure you faceshield is down then start to scream yell, laugh & go crazy to get focused, the adrenaline going and make sure no one can see or here you -- this is the PUMP it up & GET CRAZY part (actually it's my showoff & open canister show-it-off-ego phase)
* The runout or stopping the burnout: Even if your not going to do a runout you should move forward during the burnout atleast 1-2 feet away from the water.
* While starting to sit down in seat, trying to keep bike straight, increase rpm to 7000-8000 rpm, and also just as your doing this, gradually release front brake to move forward, trying to keep bike straight. Be prepared to pull in clutch should you start getting sideways - even when your a little sideways once it starts to hookup it will really snap..... this does need practice.... start with just a few feet and then progressively increase..... sometimes even when I want to do a long (100'+) run out I get a little twisted and can't do it....
* Increase RPM during the runout, as you increase length of runout to avoid hooking up. When your done pull in clutch & shutdown throttle together.
* The clean... to clean tire after burnout (optional). Hold rear brake down, 6-6500 rpm, quick clutch release & retraction for 1/4-1/2 second chirp - enough for one tire revolution.
* The Launch. stop 1 foot before lights; lean over - bend arms - rotate - put feet behind you on toes, and push into pre-stage, don't use clutch (yeah it's ok though - mostly for chain guys - where you don't want slop in chain), now creep forward just into staged. Regardless of rpm for launch hold a steady rpm.... do not blip.... or you will lose to me.
* Launch timing. Std sportsmen tree, phased amber lights to green. Launch on last amber light. Practice based on you R/T's to determine precisely when during the last light takes a little practice and is dependent upon traction off launch & how deep you stage. I deep stage (just into stage) and anticipate some spin most of the time & pause slightly just after the light comes on trying to launch as it's shutting off - average R/T is about .540-560 on a .500 tree which is not bad. yes, have had some .500 .501's
* I launch from 3800-4800 depending on traction and of course you must feather clutch to avoid spin. Immediately after launch I try & get max. rpm & clutch release to the point where 2' past line (after initial hit) my wheel comes up 2-4 inches off the ground and held most of 1st trying to avoid any engine bogging transitioning from initial launch to max rpm... Easier said then done but feels good when you do hit it - takes some practice with the max. It is common place to have tire spin 10-20' out after launch and again power shifting into 2nd, possibly 3rd.
* Note, should you race against Beaumont, focus at the line. You all know he has a very powerful halogen flashlight aimed right at your eyes. So watch the tree lights.
* get down in tuck ASAP, hit shifts from 9200-9500 (I usually hit 2nd at 9600-10,000) as I can't get me foot up fast enough to my current elec. shifter. 3rd and 4th are in my case best at approx. 9300-9400 to produce best results. keep your head down after shutdown @ approx. stock speeds of 115-120 - when you shutdown - the wind force kinda switches and can hit you pretty hard.... coast a little after shutdown gradually, not abruptly slowing down.
* Shifting. Use elec/air shifters or Power Shift.... Power shift being full rpm (no backup) & shift where you don't back off throttle at all and simply & quickly flash the clutch & shift. On the max this does typically induce head shake in all gears especially 2nd but your going straight and has never started to oscillate on me whether on stock or modified max. If shift I figure is about a 1/10th second... conventional shifting costs you even more.
Maybe I'll actually save this mail item so I can remember what I'm supposed to do!
Paul OG Beaumont, VMOA#12, from wah wah land!
4 Different Tips
by John W. Cook, Feb. '98* The rear brake light switch off the FJ series Yamaha bikes will fit the VMAX if Mr. Dealer does not have one in stock. You just have to splice the wire on the FJ switch if you are in a pinch.
* If your engine will turn over but will not crank when it is cold, check your battery voltage WHILE IT IS CRANKING. In order for the electronic ignition system to adequately fire Mr. Max. you need around 9 volts minimum -- During Cranking. If it is extremely cold, or your battery is weak, when the engine is cranking, your sustained cranking voltage may be lower than the approximately minimum 9 volts needed for starting. Additionally, oil heavier than the recommended 20-40 Yamalube or using 20-40 in extreme cold when lighter oil is recommended will place a heavy load on the starting, cranking system, yielding reduced cranking voltage. Use the correct oil for the climate you live in. If you live in a climate where the temperature is 55 degrees or higher, you can get by with Castrol 20-50. If the temp drops below 55 degrees, and you are using the heavy oil, better drive it in the motel room with you if you wish instant fireup next day.
* The starter was dragging on my 88 Max. I took it down only to find it needed cleaning and lubrication. The starter is sealed so tight, the carbon and dust had no where to go, but inside of the starter itself. I only CLEANED IT two years ago, and have experienced no further problems. Other than the carbon and dust, the rest of the parts looked like new.
* Thinking of buying a used Max. Take it for a test ride first. Holding the throttle at full speed while in gears 2-5 where possible, or safe, is a good idea. If the used Max has been driven hard, and power shifted at WOT "Wide Open Throttle" it MAY jump out of gear at full throttle. This would most likely require an expensive transmission overhaul. However, you may not notice this indication at normal driving speeds.
Signal Light Lens
by Richard Barauskas, Apr. '98For those who just bought a new Vmax check your signal light lens, it looks like they over torqued mine and my plastic lenses are all cracked.
Warranty call back in order, any body else with the same problem?
Richard
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